Unexplored Tribal Sarees

The traditional sari is a thing of wonder. It showcases the skills of handloom workers -- its weave and fabric indicating its geographic region. There is no such thing as the Indian sari: it is a collection of beautiful fabrics and textiles across different Indian states, each of which have their unique way of draping the six yard.

In the North-East, Assam is a major sari-producing centre. But the Assamese sari, though it's called a sari, is actually a two-piece garment," said Shilpa Sharma, co-founder of jaypore.com, a website that features artisanal craftswork all across India, and specialises in saris. "Punjab and Haryana don't have much of a sari-wearing history (their staple outfit is kurta with a salwar and dupatta, and a top with a long skirt respectively), but the former state has now started producing phulkari saris," she added, also revealing that Kashmir has now started reviving pashmina saris.

Karnataka Bhootheyara

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  Worn by: Nomadic ceremonial performer Area: Bidar and Gulbarga districtLength: 8 yd/ 7.36 m How to drape: Divide sari into half and take around waist. Knot tightly at centre front waist. Take both loose end between the legs front to back, and tuck in at centre back at least 10-12 inch. Bring both loose ends back to front. Hold both ends with either hand. Knot them together at centre of front waist. Bring left loose end around waist anti-clockwise. Tie knot at right waist with both ends. Separate drape may be taken over left shoulder and tucked in at right waist.
• Goa Dhangad
  
  
  
  Worn by: Shepherd Community Area: North Goa Length: 9 yd/ 8.30 m How to drape: Take inner end-piece and double-fold it to arm’s length. Wrap double-folded piece around waist clockwise. Tie at right of waist. Take outer end-piece over left shoulder up to thigh length. Hold loose portion of sari in front. Make a single fold. Pleat folded portion from left to right. Continue pleating. Hold gathered pleats in front and tuck into centre waist. Lift pleats with right hand and hold loose end in left hand. Similarly, right pleats with left hand and pick up loose end over right leg. Hold them with both hands. Tuck into centre front waist. Collect centre pleats with both hands. Bring gathered pleats to back between legs. Tuck into centre back at least 10-12 inches, spreading borders o either side to form a perfect ‘v’ shape. Lift outer end-piece from back. Throw over left shoulder. Bring outer end-piece around waist anticlockwise to tuck in at left waist.
• Gujarat Parsi
  
  
  
  Worn by: Urban mercantile community Area: Saurashtra, Gujarat Length: 5.7 yd/ 5.30 m How to drape: Take inner end of sari, wrap it around waist anticlockwise, and tuck into petticoat at right waist. Bring outer end-piece around waist anticlockwise and hold with right hand. Throw outer inner-piece over right shoulder from back leaving right end forming a ‘v’ below knee. Make pleats of remaining loose portion of sari. Tuck into centre front waist leaving some portions free at left waist. Hold outer end-piece in place with brooch on right shoulder.
• Madhya Pradesh Balaghat
  
  
  
  Worn by: Mara community Area: South Madhya Pradesh Length: 9 yd/ 8.36 mHow to drape: Take inner end-piece and fold over into triangle at waist. Take free ends of triangle at either side of waist. Tie knot over triangle at centre front waist. Bring outer end-piece over head left to right. Tuck left corner of outer end-piece at left back waist. Make pleats from right to left. Leaving two to three pleats free in left, tuck gathered pleats at centre front waist. Pick up centre point of loose pleats. Take it back between legs. Spread borders on right side of hip and tuck in. Gathered both draped border ends from back lower-end. Catch firmly and bring to front. Bring lower borders under front pleats. Fold over front pleats in triangle. Pick up front lower border. Tuck in at left and right waist, preferably one leg more visible than the other.
• Central Chhattisgarh Style
  
  
  
  Worn by: Entire community Area: Central Chhattisgarh Length: 7 yd/ 6.5 m How to drape: Wrap inner end-piece around waist clockwise and tie/tuck in at right waist. Tuck in free end-piece at left waist and fold in front in ‘v’ shape. Bring left side of folded ‘v’ to back waist and tuck in. Bring free end-piece over left shoulder to right shoulder and drape in front. Pull left corner of outer end-piece to left waist. Bring left pulled corner around waist anticlockwise. Tuck pulled portion into front left waist.
• Uttar Pradesh Seedha Pallu
  
  
  
  Worn by: Middle class, Urban and Rural Area: Central and Eastern U.P. Length:5.8 yd/ 5.3 m How to drape:Wrap inner end-piece around waist and tie knot at right waist. Bring outer end-piece over right shoulder till thigh-length back to front anticlockwise, and make pleats of remaining sari. Tuck the gathered pleats in at centre front waist.
• Bihar Purnia
  
  
  
  Worn by: Rural community Area: Northeast Bihar Length: 5 yd/ 4.55 m How to drape: Wrap inner end-piece around waist anticlockwise and tie/tuck in at left waist. Bring free end-piece to right waist and tuck in. Bring outer end-piece under left arm, over head, and across right shoulder back to front. Bring outer end-piece around waist anticlockwise. Tuck in outer end-piece at front left waist.
• Jharkhand Santhal Pargana
  
  
  
  Worn by: Majhi, kurmi and other tribes Area: Northeast Jharkhand Length: 5 yd/ 4.6 m How to drape: Wrap inner end-piece around waist clockwise. Tie knot at right waist and bring free end to left and tuck in. Bring outer end-piece, over right shoulder from back to front anticlockwise. Bring both edges of outer end-piece to centre back waist from either side and tuck in.
• West Bengal Nadia
  
  
  
  Worn by: Women during special occasions -- marriages and pujas (the more modern form of sari styling has replaced this in recent years). Area: Central region of West Bengal Length: 5.7 yd/ 5.3 m How to drape: Bring inner end-piece around waist clockwise and tie knot at right waist. Bring free end-piece to left waist and tuck in. Bring free end-piece to right waist and tuck in. Throw free end of sari over right shoulder. Adjust free end-piece over head and bring to front waist under right arm. Throw over left shoulder again.
• Orissa Kotapad
  
  
  
  Worn by: Tribal rural community Area: South Orissa Length: 5.7 yd/ 5.3 m How to drape: Wrap inner end of sari around waist clockwise and tie knot at right waist. Hold free end portion with left hand. Throw free end over left shoulder. Bring free end to front under right arm. Take outer end-piece around chest anticlockwise and tie knot with front upper border at right shoulder.
• Andhra Pradesh Boggili Posi
  
  
  
  Worn by: Golla (shepherd community); Gudati Kapulu (agriculturist) Area:Narasannapalle, Cuddapah district, Rayalseema region, South Andhra PradeshLength: 9 yd/ 8.26 m How to drape: Bring inner end-piece around waist clockwise and tie knot at front. Bring outer end-piece around waist anticlockwise and throw over right shoulder till thigh-length. Make pleats of remaining loose portion facing right. Roll pleats outward and secure by wrapping over with innermost layer. Pick up lower borders at two extremes. Pick up lower borders at two extremes. Bring to centre back waist from either sides and tuck in.
• Tamil Nadi Madisaru
  
  
  
  Worn by: Iyengar Brahmin Area: Central Tamil Nadu Length: 9 yd/ 8.3 m How to drape: Wrap inner end of sari around waist clockwise and tie knot at right waist. Lift lower border of inner end-piece and tuck in at left waist. Make five to six pleats from right free end of sari. Spread out pleats across front and tuck in. Bring free end of sari around waist anticlockwise under right arm. Gather two to three diagonal pleats from free end of sari and tuck into left waist. Take free end of sari front to back between legs. Tuck in at centre back waist up to 12 inches. Bring free end of sari around waist anticlockwise and throw over left shoulder.
• Maharashtra Nau Vari
  
  
  
  Worn by: Popularly by Lavani performers, but also by other women Area: Central Maharashtra Length: 9 yd/ 8.30 m How to drape: Take inner end of sari clockwise around waist and tie knot at right waist. Holder outer end-piece and bring towards right side from back. Bring outer end-piece over left shoulder, overhead till knee length and make pleats of remaining free portion. Reverse pleats from left to right and take out inner two to three pleats. Wrap freed pleats around gathered pleats to bind them and tuck in at left waist. Roll pleats outward to desired length of sari into banana like form. Pull inner most layer of sari and turn outward over banana form, securing it firmly. Take lower border of back drape to center front waist. Bring it over banana-like form to reverse. Pick up centre point of left front pleats. Rollover and hold towards centre between legs. Pick up lower hemline with both hands. Bring them together to centre front. Hold both borders with left hand and stretch out to centre point. Pull centre point to back between legs. Tuck into centre back waist at least 9-12 inches and both border fall parallel at the back. Take loose end of lower border at back of legs. Wrap it inward to form a tight drape around leg up to calf. Wrapping must go completely around leg from outer to inner side. Tie cord holding ‘v’ formation of border above heel. Lavani performers usually wear at least ten rows of ankle bells over cord.
• Kerala Tribal Style
  
  
  
  Worn by: Tribal community Area: North East Kerala, especially Wayanad and Palakad Length of upper drape: 3yd/ 2.6m Lower drape: 4.5 yd/ 4 m How to drape: Wrap inner end-piece around waist clockwise and tie knot at centre. Bring free end piece around waist anticlockwise to right front waist, leaving loose portion to left waist. Bring free end-piece across breast right to left and wrap it twice. Bring free end-piece over right shoulder back to front.

Indian Statewise Costume and Jewellary

India is a land of multitude culture and tradition and within the radius of 500 km the culture, food, and of course fashion. It is amazing to see, that within the country there is a diversification of fashion and clothing which could be due to the weather condition and culture of the society. We are blessed to be a country with such assortment of sartorial choices. So, for all the fashion faithful folks, we are featuring the different types of dresses in India in different states, which would enlighten you and might make you own one of the traditional dresses. We even show you the Indian traditional dresses of different states images, that would give you a clear idea about the traditional outfits of each state.

1. Assam:

Assam is also known as Rangoli Bihu and is a country within the state. Assam is a merrymaking state and full of live place.

Men Wear:

Dhoti Gamosa:

The traditional wear of men, gamosa is a rectangular clothing with red border and motifs along with which dhoti is draped on the below bodice. Gamosa is a sign of respect and love.

Women Wear:

Mekhela Chadar:

Assam traditional attire for women is the Mekhela Chador, which is almost like half saree, but the draping is different.

Muga Silk Sari:

The rarest silk of Assam that is opulent and a must-have for the sari lovers. The unique designs with gold threads are awe-inspiring. The best thing about the Muga silk is that with every wash the silk shines brighter.

Jewelry:

Gamkharu:

The handmade bracelet which is gold plated is a traditional jewelry of Assam. The broad bracelet can be worn both with western and traditional wear.

Thuriya:

Thuriya is gold earrings, mostly worn by the older women, but the rich floral design is worth noticing.

Junbiri:

The half moon pendant or Junbiri is made keeping in mind the beauty and elegance of a woman. The silver jewelry with gold plating is a most adored jewelry of Assamese women.

2. Uttar Pradesh:

Among the names of traditional dresses of Indian states, the land of royalty Lucknow offers spectacular dresses for both men and women.

Men Wear:

Sherwani:

A blend of style and classy emanates from Sherwani which belongs to the city of Lucknow and is a favorite outfit of every groom. Designed with rich zari work, the Sherwani definitely tops the list of traditional dresses of Indian states.

Dhoti Kurta:

Another common attire, worn across the nation during traditional festivals and functions- dhoti kurta. These days readymade dhotis are available to ease the difficulty of pleating.

Women Wear:

Banaras Brocade:

The bridal trousseau is incomplete without the Banarasi sari, inspired by the Mughals the artistry carried on the Banarasi sari reflects the heritage and tradition of India.

Chikankari:

The delicate and chic look of chikankari work salwar suits are the perfect companion for the summer seasons. From office wear to party wear, chikankari is the perfect choice for all occasions.

Jewelry:

Passa (Maang tikka):

Uttar Pradesh is well-known for its silver jewelry and impeccable maang tikka that is worn by the brides. From side maang tikka to other unique head accessories, UP is the home to fabulous and regal jewelry.

3. Bihar:

Bihar is one of the oldest city rich in culture and tradition, according to the traditional dresses of India state wise, Bihar gives fascinating traditional wear for merrymaking occasions.

Men Wear:

Long kurta with Dhoti:

Every man living in Bihar enjoys wearing the loose-fit kurta and pair it with the dhoti. Whereas the younger group of men wear kurta with pyjama and bring an uber-cool look.

Women Wear:

Bhagalpuri silk:

Bhagalpur is the hub for Bhagalpuri silk also known as tussar silk which is famous and quintessential wear for parties. The rich designs and patterns give an elegant touch to the sari also, women of Bihar generally style their sari in seedha pallu style.

Jewelry:

Hansli:

The Dhokra tribes residing in the eastern part of the country are famous for designing the traditional hansuli which has a charm and ethnicity sure to allure all.

Kamarbandh:

Indian heritage boasts about ethnic jewelry and the women of Bihar enjoy silver and gold jewelry. Some of the most loved jewelry are the Kamar bandh, which is a famous accessory for brides. Kamarbandh has now become a staple wear for all the brides across the nation.

4. Jammu & Kashmir:

Men Wear:

Pheran:

In the Indian traditional state wise list, the northern region of India, Jammu & Kashmir outfits is unique and designed according to the weather. Pheran is a popular dress which is worn both by the men and women. It is a loose knee length tunic which is worn with fitting trousers.

Pathani Suit:

A stylish suit of the time which is popular worldwide and worn by men on a special occasion- Pathani suit. It has an aura of sophistication and dapper that would immediately make any man look best.

Gurgabis:

A unisex shoe that come in intricate zari and embroidery work which is perfect for the steepy mountains.

Women Wear:

Pheran:

Though Pheran is worn by both men and women, for women the look is slightly different, it is vibrant and rich with embroidery work and shows the rich culture of India.

Taranga:

A head dress worn by the natives of Kashmir, which is bright and vibrant with detailed embroidery work. The unique cap brings and the dupatta flowing from the head brings a feminine look.

Pashmina Shawls:

The love of every woman, pashmina shawls have a smooth and warm feel that makes it perfect for winter outfits, though many use this even as an accessory to their outfit.

Jewelry:

Dejhoor:

The long pair of gold earrings that hang on thin gold threads and passes through the ears give a different look. Brides of Kashmir wear this along with heavy jewelry and elevate their traditional look.

Silver Jewels:

Apart from dejharoo, Kashmiri girls love silver jewelry and often accessorize themselves with silver jewels.

5. West Bengal:

Men Wear:

Dhoti Kurta:

Most of the men in the north east region wear dhoti-kurta for casual and merriments. For the weddings, the grooms prefer silk dhoti and kurta.

Women Wear:

Baluchari:

The grand pallu of the Baluchari sari would grab the attention of any woman. The intricate designs and amazing craftsmanship shows the majestic culture of Bengal.

Kantha:

Kantha means ‘old cloth’, but there is nothing old about this fabulous looking saree which is dazzled with rich embroidery work. A perfect wear for morning puja functions, office wear.

Jamdani:

Jamdani is a Persian word, Jam means flower and Dani means vase, so the floral prints are spread across the saree and brings a vibrant look. From daily wear to parties Jamdani sari is a favorite pick of every woman. 

Tant Saree:

The tant is handloom cotton sari perfect for corporate or business look. The pallu designs reflect the rich heritage of India a must buy for professional ladies.

6. Odisha:

The land of temples, Odisha is home to famous apparels that has gained popularity all over the globe. In the list of dresses of Indian states chart, Odisha provides gorgeous outfits, making every woman and man crave for it.

Men Wear:

Dhoti-Kurta and Gamucha:

Even in Odisha men prefer wearing dhoti-kurta and sweat towel, gamcha. However, the younger group of men prefer wearing trousers and shirt.

Women Wear:

Bomkai sari:

The handloom saree, Bomkai sari is one of the oldest handloom saris and has grandiose craftsmanship which still lists it in the most loved saree.

Ikat sari:

The unique process of the making of the saree makes it special and favorite wear. The dyeing of threads and weaving them together to create a unique saree speaks about amazing skilled artisans.

Sambalpuri saree:

Another handwoven saree which shows the finesse of the weavers and designers. There are paintings, embroidery and tie and dye process which altogether makes the saree an elegant piece.

7. Andhra Pradesh:

When we talk about dresses of India state wise, Andhra Pradesh offers bright hued and exquisite dresses that are worth buying.

Men Wear:

Pancha:

Similar to the dhoti, Andhra Pradesh men are seen wearing pancha as their traditional outfit. Weddings, functions and other ceremonies men prefer wearing pancha and shirt.

Women Wear:

Pochampally silk sari:

Pochampally silk sari is another gorgeous saree that is handwoven with ikat designs and is a bridal pick as its light weight and has a glossy finish.

Mangalagiri Sari:

Mangalagiri is a holy hill and it is believed that Lord Vishnu blessed a weaver with the fine skills of weaving a mangalgiri saree. The Mangalagiri cotton saree is of solid shade with stunning designs on the pallu, whereas the mangalgiri silk saree, rich with zari work, is a sartorial pick of brides of Andhra.

Gadwal Sari:

Gadwal saris are rich brocaded sari with floral, fauna, mythological designs, kalamkari prints adorned on the pallu and border of the saree. A perfect saree of weddings, and merry-makings.

Jewelry:

Pearls:

The city of Nizams is famous for fresh water pearls and is a must-buy if you are visiting the city.

Paizeb:

Paizeb is anklets that have loose gold or Kundan chains encrusted with uncut diamonds and the ends of the anklet is  adorned with small bells bringing a grace to the anklet.

8. Tamilnadu:

Men Wear:

Lungi:

The staple clothing of the men residing in Tamil Nadu is the lungi and shirt. Lungi is a sarong wrapped around the lower bodice and comes in stripes, checkers and other prints.

Women Wear:

Kanchipuram silk sari:

Kanchipuram saris are the epitome of grandeur, royal and tradition. The regal golden threads woven to give ancient designs such as temple, mango butti and others makes it one of the best bridal trousseau wear in the list of Indian states and their dresses.

Madurai cotton:

The city is known for its handloom cotton and the sarees are weaved in raw cotton and rich threads adding a regal look to the crisp cotton saree, that you can wear to your work.

Jewelry:

Temple Jewelry:

Women of Tamil Nadu adore gold jewelry and prefer wearing it on regular and high profile functions. The brides of Tamilnadu are found wearing temple jewelry which is royal and ethnic.

Ottiyanam:

A gold belt that is worn over the saree has goddess Lakshmi crafted at the center of the belt and has floral and peacock patterns spread on the belt.

Pullaku:

A center nose ring which is still worn by the Brahmin brides of Tamilnadu as well as by the Bharatnatyam dancers.

9. Kerala:

Men Wear:

Mundu:

A staple wear of Kerala men which is similar to lungi, but the wearing style is different in comparison to lungi. Along with the mundu, veshti which is a shirt.

Women Wear:

Kasavu:

Among the various names of dresses of different states of India, Kasauli is a popular wear of Kerala women, worn during Onam celebrations, but recently several celebrities have sported this look in Bollywood movies.

Jewelry:

Kasu Mala:

The coins assembled together to form a chain is known as the kasu mala, worn majorly at festivals and weddings.

Palakka Mala:

The leaf necklace is another elegant jewelry of Kerala, which has emerald stones studded in the form of a leaf.

Kolusu:

Kolusu or anklets worn by the girls and women on weddings and festive, mostly designed in silver metal. The trinkets hanging from the kolusu is a symbol of a lady’s presence.

10. Karnataka:

Women Wear:

Mysore Silk:

The zest looking saree is a must have for the festivals and weddings. The soft, light weight yet lustrous look of the sari brings a very royal look.

Jewelry:

Netri Chutti:

Maang tikka is also called the netri chutti has intricate ethnic designs and worn by the girls and brides during weddings.

Haaram:

A long chain bedazzled with rich lotus, peacock and goddess designs enhancing the beauty of the woman.

Tholu Bandhi:

A favorite jewelry of all Kannada brides, tholu bandhi is an armlet which has elegant artistry and unique patterns

Pacha Kempina Ungaru:

Rings are favorite of every woman, but this stylish ruby and emerald stones encrusted ring is an exceptional ring for the classy woman.

11. Maharashtra:

Men Wear:

Dhoti-Pheta and Pagadi:

Maharashtrian men’s traditional attire consists of dhoti, kurta and a pheta (Marathi term used for the traditional turban). The pheta or the headdress is a turban that is made of silk or cotton worn especially during the weddings.

Women Wear:

Paithani Sari:

Made from the finest silk, Paithani sari have extensive border and pallu work adorned with peacock, floral motifs, the traditional motifs are Asavali, Narli and petal designs. The rich and vibrant colors of the sari brings a luxurious look.

Lugade:

The nine yards saree, is a traditional saree of Maharashtra worn by the elder group of women, which is draped in the Kastha style or the Maharashtrian dhoti style.

Narayan Peth Saree:

The treasure of Maharashtra, Narayan Peth saree are famous in the Solapur region and has an opulent look due to the zari work and has flamboyant motifs embellished on the border.

Jewelry:

Kolhapuri Saaj:

21 leaves of different designs clustered together form the Kolhapur saaj, which is a famous jewelry of Maharashtrian women and gives a grandiose look.

Thushi:

Thushi is a bridal jewelry which symbolizes prosperity, the Kolhapur famous choker necklace has gold beads held together by a piece of rope.

Guchhedar Nath:

The unique nath which is worn by the brides on their wedding is a famous jewelry radiant with pearls and is in the shape of a cashew nut. The most popular nath is the Brahmin nath known for pearl and emerald.

Bangadi:

The green glass bangles is a popular set of bangles worn by the bride after her Mehendi ceremony. It depicts fertility and new life and is worn always in odd numbers.

Mundavalya:

A unisex headpiece worn by both bride and the groom on their wedding day is made from pearls and flowers. The bride wears the mundavalya when she walks towards the mandap.

12. Gujarat:

Men Wear:

Chrono and Kediyu:

A famous outfit worn by men during the garba nights, the kediyu is a heavy pleated top which is paired with chrono or tight fit churidar. Along with this few men even pair headgear known as phento.

Dhoti Kafani:

The upper-class men wear the silk or cotton dhoti and team it with shirt known as kafani or pehraan.

Women Wear:

Chaniya Choli:

Fashioned similar to the lehenga choli, but the chaniya choli has an exuberant look, rich with colors and designs perfect for celebrations

Panetar:

It is a pure white saree with maroon or red motifs spread on the saree and the border, which is worn by the brides on their wedding.

Tanchoi silk saree:

A priced possession every Parsi family in Gujarat, Tanchoi silk saree have exquisite weaving with the gold threads and royal motifs making the saree a royal possession.

Patola Saree:

The handmade sarees that are woven in silk and in double ikat fashion is one of the aristocratic sarees of Gujarat. It takes about six months to a year in designing a Patola saree.

Jewelry:

Kandora:

A fancy kamarband worn around the waist known as kandora is the popular jewelry of Gujarat. It is mostly designed in silver and adoring accessory for many women.

Matha Tikka:

A head jewelry which has several gold chains linked together with enticing motifs encrusted with rubies and emeralds. Shinka has several trinkets hanging which adds a grace to the jewelry.

Patla bangles:

The specialty of patla bangles is that they are wider than the usual bangles and they have rich detailed work in kundan, pearls and other precious gemstones.

13. Rajasthan:

Men Wear:

Dhoti- Angrakha:

The classic wear of Rajasthani men is the dhoti with angarkha, which comes in vivid shades emulating the rich culture of Rajasthan. To complete the look, men even wear pagri or turban which come in rich colors.

Mojaris:

An iconic footwear, that is worn by both men and women, is a definite buy for pairing with your ethnic wear.

Women Wear:

Kota Doria Saree: Soft touch and crisp look of Kota Doria saree are sure to grab your attention. The square shaped Khats designed on the saree makes it look rich and exuberant.

Bandhej Saree:

The world famous saree, Bandhej comes in vivid colors and patterns arresting the eyes of all. The tie and dye process of the threads come in a wide variety and is a must have for the Spring wardrobe.

Lehariya Saree:

Lehariya symbolizes the waves of the ocean and comes in magnificent colors, adding a vibrant look to your wardrobe. The distinct patterns such as zig zag, stripes show the intensive work of the artisans and.

Jewelry:

Borla:

A stylish maang tika with a spherical or cylindrical pendant that hangs at the center of the head is a famous headgear worn by brides and women of Rajasthan. It comes in colorful and eye catchy patterns which any age group of woman can wear to weddings.

Karanphool Jhumka:

Elegance radiates from the jhumka which is embellished with pearls, diamonds and rubies. The jhumka is fashioned in the form of the bell and the center of the earring has a majestic looking floral design.

Haath Phool:

A famous bridal accessory also knows as panchagnula which is designed to decorate the back of the palm and fingers. A floral motif at the center is linked with 5 rings for the fingers and is mostly made from silver and Kundan.